So
what are you eating lately? And more important, why? No, I don't
want to hear about your allergic reaction to the bubble of fat
around your midriff, or your neurotic teeth-grinding at every
diabetic noise that goes plphatt in the night. I want to know what
you're doing for gastronomic kicks in your life. You
see…when the preparation and consumption of food journeys
beyond survival nutrition, it lands at the gate of entertainment
as the art of cooking and it is as indexing, revealing, and
self-defining as any art form. Impressionistic, expressionistic,
cubist and in some windowless chambers, even abstract (commonly
referred to as "tasteless") We call it… Cuisine.
Journeying into a cuisine is
an addiction, seldom a curse, mostly a delight. I've had as many
addictions as you've had, probably more. My current addicition is
Thai cuisine. It is a food wonderland based on fresh vegetables
and fruit, with an emphasis on spices, fresh seafood, and less
emphasis on beef. It is an overwhelmingly sensual cuisine with its
soups, salads, entrees and its touching, mingling, shared-way of
eating.
America has no cuisine, it
has Walmart. But it also has, in its vast, chaotic geography and
culture, layered by waves of immigration, the joy of tastes of
cuisines from almost every cooking culture in the
world—primarily in its metropolitan centers. Put a curtain
over New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, New Orleans and you're
left with the reality of America—its true politics, its
morality, its hypocrisy, and its cuisine… and Walmart.
For the addicted me, I have a
lament. There are more than 4000 Thai restaurants in the U.S. I've
tried, let me say, a lot of them. I cannot find the taste there,
the sensuality, the art of Thai cooking that embraces me and fills
me with charm when I'm in Thailand. This shouldn't be. But
American Thai restaurants cater to the American palate. They
"bland" it, "chinese" it, market it to develop a successful
business. Understandable. However, many other international cusine
restaurants also include dishes on and off the menu for their fellow country-people who want the real tastes of the real cuisine. But not, seemingly, the Thai. Why? I don't know. Perhaps it's because Thai ex-pats are driven to assimilate and don't need to taste what was, but rather what is. It's part of the enterprising-entrepreneurial side of the intriguing Thai character. After all, they do come from the only Asian country that was never colonized by a foreign power.
My other near-addiction is
Vietnamese food. It is somewhat similar to Thai food but with a
pervasive French overlay that makes it unique. The story of the
delivery of this cuisine to America and its evolution is a study
in art nouveau. When the Vietnamese refugees were allowed
to flood into the U.S. as a reaction to the American guilt of the
1975 American war that nearly destroyed their country, they
immediately created restaurants, primarily in California. Many of
them offered menus that included dishes that were only prepared at
home and seldom offered in restaurants in Vietnam—so called, maison food. These same restaurants usually had dishes off-menu for the Vietnamese palate. There was motivation. Their customers were refugees, not immigrants, and they needed the taste from home. Unlike the Thai, they supported it. They still do, even their next generations.
And so dear consumer, to
complete this brief musing journey, I leave you with a cautionary
tale: When the wave of Vietnamese refugees came ashore in
America, medical researchers, particularly at UCSF, realized they
had a rare opportunity to study and perhaps define a
dilemma… the origin and nature of colon cancer and other
gastric maladies. Forty years ago, colon cancer displayed low
numbers in a large part of Asia as opposed to the much higher
incidence in Europe and the U.S. The prevailing focus singled out
diet. Now came a large, rather homogenous group of people from
Vietnam from that low-incidence geography. Testing revealed the
low incidence of colon cancer, et al, among a substantial
cross-section of the refugees. Ten years later, follow-through
research revealed a rise in colon cancer among that Vietnamese
group that matched the incidence among the general American
population. Though the Vietnamese cooked Vietnamese at home and
ate in Vietnamese restaurants, the natural course of assimilation
added substantial quantities of other cuisine foodstuffs to their
diet. It was stunning and deadly. It was diet.
And so it is with obesity.
Thai people are generally slim. It's not necessarily genetic, it
has a lot to do with what they eat and their activity. When I
first traveled to Thailand, I was hard-pressed to see an obese
person. Today, I see more of them. In America, obesity is
epidemic. And I see more obese Thai-Americans than ever before.
When you strip away all of the fad-diets, the disinformation on
the internet, the so-called miracle drugs, you're left with this
simple fact: it is the quantity and quality of the food in your
cuisine. What goes minus, what goes out leaves you with what
becomes… fat.
Now, given the Covid
pandemic, the Ukraine war, distraught supply chains, chaotic
shipping, rampant profiteering… people everywhere find
themselves scambling to find something to eat, nutritious or not,
healthy or not, anything to satisfy hunger and those quasi-cuisine
addictions. Both obesity and famine are on the rise. And
McDonald's has left Russia! Oh my, no more pie in the sky!
Is perestroika lost and gone forever?
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