Author
Thomas
Harris'
superb
character,
Hannibal
Lecter,
is
a
superb
gourmet-gourmand.
As
brilliantly
portrayed
by
Anthony
Hopkins
and
equally
so
by
Mads
Mikkelsen,
the
astonishing
Hannibal
thrives
on
preparing,
serving
and
consuming
food
with
magnificent
presentation
and
magnificent
tastes
that
are
almost
impossible
to
find
outside
of
his
dining
room
because,
as
you
should
know,
Hannibal
prepares,
serves
and
consumes
human
food
made
from
humans.
So who or rather what are you eating lately? And more important, why?
No,
I
don’t
want
to
hear
about
your
allergic
reaction
to
the
bubble
of
fat
around
your
midriff,
or
your
neurotic
teeth-grinding
at
every
diabetic
noise
that
goes
plphatt
in
the
night.
I
want
to
know
what
you’re
doing
for
gastronomic
kicks
in
your
life.
You
see…
when
the
preparation
and
consumption
of
food
journeys
beyond
survival
nutrition,
it
lands
at
the
gate
of
entertainment
as
the
art
of
cooking
and
it’s
as
indexing,
revealing,
and
self-defining
as
any
art
form.
Impressionistic,
expressionistic,
cubist
and
in
some
windowless
chambers,
even
abstract
(commonly
referred
to
as
“tasteless”)
We
call
it…
Cuisine.
Journeying
into
a
cuisine
is
an
addiction,
seldom
a
curse,
mostly
a
delight.
I’ve
had
as
many
addictions
as
you’ve
had,
probably
more.
My
most
recent
addiction
was
Thai
cuisine.
It
is
a
food
wonderland
based
on
fresh
vegetables
and
fruit,
with
an
emphasis
on
spices,
fresh
seafood,
and
less
emphasis
on
meats
and
desserts.
It
is
an
overwhelmingly
sensual
cuisine
with
its
soups,
salads,
entrees
and
its
touching,
mingling,
shared-way
of
eating.
But
no
more.
Since
the
Covid
epidemic,
Thai
cuisine
has
been
invaded
by
the
circus
of
home
delivery
and
with
it
the
intrusion
of
excess
salt
and
sugar.
I've
no
way
to
defend
against
that.
America
has
no
cuisine...
it
has
Walmart.
But
it
also
has,
in
its
vast,
chaotic
geography
and
culture,
layered
by
waves
of
immigration,
the
joy
of
tastes
of
cuisines
from
almost
every
cooking
culture
in
the
world—primarily
in
its
metropolitan
centers.
Pull
a
curtain
over
New
York,
San
Francisco,
Los
Angeles
and
Miami,
and
you’re
left
with
the
reality
of
America—its
true
politics,
its
morality,
its
hypocrisy,
and
its
cuisine…
and
Walmart.
My
lingering
near-addiction
is
Vietnamese
food.
It
is
somewhat
similar
to
Thai
food
but
with
a
pervasive
French
overlay
that
makes
it
unique.
The
story
of
the
delivery
of
this
cuisine
to
America
and
its
evolution
is
a
study
in art nouveau.
When
Vietnamese
refugees
were
allowed
to
flood
into
the
U.S.
as
a
reaction
to
the
guilt
of
the
1975
American
war
that
nearly
destroyed
their
country,
they
immediately
created
restaurants,
primarily
in
California.
Many
of
them
offered
menus
that
included
dishes
that
were
only
prepared
at
home
and
seldom
offered
in
restaurants
in
Vietnam—so
called, maison food. These same restaurants usually had dishes “off” menu for the Vietnamese palate. There was motivation. Their customers were refugees, not immigrants, and they needed the taste from home. Unlike the Thai, they supported it. They still do, even their next generations.
And
so
dear
consumer,
to
complete
this
brief
musing
journey,
I
leave
you
with
a
cautionary
tale.
When
the
wave
of
Vietnamese
refugees
came
ashore
in
the
U.S.,
medical
researchers,
particularly
at
UCSF,
realized
they
had
a
rare
opportunity
to
study
and
perhaps
define
a
dilemma:
the
origin
and
nature
of
colon
cancer
and
other
gastric
maladies.
Fifty
years
ago,
colon
cancer
displayed
low
numbers
in
a
large
part
of
Asia
as
opposed
to
its
much
higher
incidence
in
Europe
and
the
U.S.
The
prevailing
focus
singled
out
diet.
Now
came
a
large,
rather
homogeneous
group
of
people
from
Vietnam
from
that
low-incidence
geography.
Testing
revealed
the
low
incidence
of
colon
cancer,
et
al,
among
a
substantial
cross-section
of
the
refugees.
Ten
years
later,
follow-through
research
revealed
a
rise
in
colon
cancer
among
that
Vietnamese
group
that
matched
the
incidence
among
the
general
American
population.
Though
the
Vietnamese
cooked
Vietnamese
at
home
and
ate
in
Vietnamese
restaurants,
the
natural
course
of
assimilation
added
substantial
quantities
of
other
“cusine”
foodstuffs
to
their
diet.
It
was
stunning
and
deadly.
It
was
diet.
The
same
with
obesity.
Thai
people
are
generally
slim.
It’s
not
necessarily
genetic,
it
has
a
lot
to
do
with
what
they
eat
and
their
activity.
When
I
first
traveled
to
Thailand,
I
was
hard-pressed
to
see
an
obese
person.
Today,
I
see
many
more
and
much
more
of
them.
In
America,
obesity
is
epidemic.
When
you
strip
away
all
of
the
fad-diets,
the
disinformation
on
the
internet,
the
“miracle
drugs”,
you’re
left
with
this
simple
fact
about
the
quantity
and
quality
of
the
food
in
your
cuisine:
What
goes
in
minus
what
goes
out
leaves
you
with
what
becomes…
fat.
So what are you eating lately… and how much?
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