After
I published my
three-part
reminiscences of my
time in the small Texas
town of Henrietta, I
decided to expand the
story, if not into a
full book, at least a
longform memoir. Thus
over the last year I
have been widening the
scope of the piece to
include other
reflections on Texas
concerning such things
as food and music and
adding some family
history. Many of these
elements have appeared
as individual columns
herein over the years.
I am nearing the end of
this odyssey and have
been looking for a way
to bring it to a close.
So I decided that when
I was visiting my
siblings in Dallas this
past Christmas I would
take a day and return
to Henrietta. My
partner graciously
agreed to accompany me
since she had heard
much about the town and
was curious to see it
for herself.
The Dallas-Ft. Worth
(DFW) metroplex has
grown considerably in
the last 60 years so it
took longer to escape
the sprawl than when my
family and I used to
make the drive.
Nevertheless, by the
time we reached
Decatur, about 66 miles
northwest of Dallas,
the housing
developments and
shopping centers had
thinned out along with
the traffic, and we
cruised along US 287,
passing the small towns
whose names were so
familiar: Alvord, Bowie
(home of The World's
Largest Bowie Knife),
Belleview. Finally,
mileage signs for
Henrietta began to
appear. Soon we arrived
at the turnoff that led
into town. I took a
deep breath and turned
right.
When I first decided to
include a side trip to
Henrietta in my travel
plans, I was excited
about the prospect of a
return after 60 years
to a place that had
possessed my memory to
the point of becoming
nearly mythical. On the
morning of the
departure, I couldn't
wait to get on the
road. I was looking
forward to the drive
through the prairie,
past the towns I
mentioned above, hoping
that at least some
parts of it were still
relatively unchanged. I
delighted in the
scenery, unspectacular
as it was, when we
cleared the DFW sprawl
and hit open country.
The open fields and
wide expanse of land,
the windmills and water
tanks all brought back
memories of this trip I
made so often with my
family. As ever, cows,
horses, even the
occasional sheep
populated the grassland
on either side of the
highway.
Curiously, as we pulled
off the highway, my
anticipation was tinged
with apprehension. What
if the town turned out
to be very different
than what I remembered?
What if my memory had
led me to create a sort
of golden aura about
the place that the
reality didn't measure
up to?
Prior to coming, I at
least didn't expect
Henrietta to seem
smaller than I
remembered—the
way one's childhood
house often does when
viewed again as an
adult—since it
appeared very small in
my memory. Oddly,
however, the distance
from the town limit to
the town square was
much shorter than I
recalled, a phenomenon
repeated throughout the
visit. On the other
hand, the square and
the surrounding streets
matched my memories
almost exactly, except
for the fact that few
businesses were
occupied and there was
virtually no foot
traffic and only the
occasional car. The
movie theater was long
gone, though the boot
store and feed store
remained, as did the
Post Office. And the
courthouse, despite
being scaffolded and
under repair was still
magnificent with its
red stone façade and
cupola atop the roof.
Small-town Texas
courthouses are
generally quite
remarkable
architectural feats,
often at odds with the
slow dwindling of their
surroundings. We walked
around all four sides,
happy memories and the
aesthetic pleasure of
viewing the building,
mixed with the sadness
of the signs of
abandonment. The town
itself had lost little
population since I
left, so I imagine that
somewhere on the road
to Wichita Falls, the
nearest city about 19
miles to the west, a
Wal-Mart or similar big
box store had drawn
away downtown business.
Further exploration,
however, proved to be
much more uplifting.
Just across the street
from the courthouse
stands the former Clay
County jail, built in
1890, a structure I had
no memory of
whatsoever. It is now
the county historical
museum. Though it was
closed that day, even
walking around it was a
fascinating experience.
As with similar
projects around the
country, much of the
fundraising was
accomplished by
rewarding a donation
with an engraved brick
or paving stone. It was
very interesting, even
moving, to see the
various inscriptions,
some simply peoples' or
business names, others
memorials or tributes
to school classes. Two
of the larger paving
stones gave me a rush
of nostalgia: One had
been donated by Trinity
Episcopal Church, our
parish that my father
had been called to
lead. The other said
simply "Boddy Ranch."
In one of the previous
installments I
described visits to
that very ranch because
the son of the family
was my contemporary and
classmate. I wondered
if my friend Brad was
still alive, if he had
taken over the ranch or
if it passed into
someone else's hands or
broken into smaller
parcels.
The next stop was even
more affecting. I'll
resume with that in
Part 2 next month.
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