In
my last essay, I spoke
about the Weehawken
police blotter and about
teasing out people's
narratives from its
telegraphic entries. I
also mentioned how
people were sent to a
place called Snake Hill,
Hudson County's complex
of buildings housing the
cast-offs of society,
with a penitentiary,
infectious disease
hospitals, an alms house
and, most notoriously,
burial grounds holding
at least 10,000 people
over its century of use,
most of whom now lie
under the New Jersey
Turnpike and the playing
fields of what is now
known as Laurel Hill
Park.
In 2003, when the
turnpike authority
discovered the
interments as it began
building its off-ramp to
the Secaucus Junction
train station, it
reluctantly undertook
the disinterment and
reburial of about 4,500
remains, the largest
such effort in the
history of the United
States (a tale told in
the 2007 documentary, Snake Hill).
The story of excavating
the burial ledgers and
other paperwork
connected to the
cemeteries was another
heroic story, and with
that documentation,
officials were able to
identify about 900
people.
I went out to Laurel
Hill Park, the
deodorized name of the
former Snake Hill
complex, knowing that I
walked over the graves
of more than half the
people logged into the
burial journals as
having been buried
there. I also knew that
most likely everyone
there with me that day
on the playing fields
and at the boat launch
did not know what lay
beneath them. Nor did
the thousands of
motorists on the New
Jersey Turnpike or the
hundreds of people
housed in the apartments
and condos now part of
the Secaucus Junction
site.
I was not sure what I was supposed to feel. Perhaps I don't need to feel
anything, that is,
any regret or anger or
even
curiosity—after
all, everything that
happened there happened
a long time ago, and
eventually all the
memories will dissolve
along with the
generations of people
holding them.
I also traveled to Maple
Park Grove Cemetery in
Hackensack, where the
remains of those taken
from Snake Hill were
remaindered and a
cenotaph erected,
listing the names of
everyone scratched into
the burial registers,
not just those taken
from the site (though
the body-bearers
couldn't have made that
list since according to
one of the people
interviewed in the
documentary, very few
people could be
identified).
So, the situation in
Hackensack is that while
everyone has been named,
there is no way to know
if any one named person
is in the cemetery vault
or still under the
playing fields and
turnpike traffic scrum
in Secaucus. Even though
known, still unknown.
And the cenotaph is not
well maintained: the
inscription in marble
above the incised tree
are both discolored,
making the words
difficult to read. It's
tucked off in a corner
of the landscape and, at
least on the day I was
there, the area behind
the memorial was full of
trash and dead grass
clippings. Ignored once
again.
The whole story is a
maddening one of neglect
and abuse, but perhaps
it just bears no
relevance to our
struggles today (though,
as I sketch it out, I
have to write that
phrase a little bit
tongue in cheek): a
county administration
mired in a history of
corruption, a state
authority careless about
the niceties of building
a state-spanning
project, thousands of
voiceless poor people
dying uneulogized in a
place no different in
function than a
landfill, a handful of
people dedicated to the
truth being told and
actually bringing a
small part of that truth
into the light.
(It's quite likely that
if Snake Hill happened
in 2022, the story might
turn out differently
because of different
technologies [e.g., DNA,
lidar, ground
penetrating radar] and
more environmental
oversight of the
construction
project—though I
tend to think that the
forces arrayed against
the dead people would
still be strong enough
to keep them in the
ground and out of the
public memory and the
bond markets.)
Of course, the writerly
part of me thinks that
the story is a powerful
one to tell, with
identifiable heroes and
villains, a clear moral
dichotomy and a
bittersweet victory. But
is it? What needle would
it move to tell this
story? What is the
dramatic
conflict—not the
frictional conflict of
battle but the conflict
of moral choices where
the outcome is not
ordained or even known
by the chooser? (In
other words, what is the
gray mystery play aspect
of this brightly colored
landscape?)
However, I can't give it up completely, and I think the story (or a story) lies not in the grand sweep of large actors but in the individual battle against the inhuman conditions. In this case, Ellen Giles, the heroine (?) of my last essay, goes to prison for one of her 90-day stints in the county jail for being drunk and disorderly.
Ellen was in the county
jail often enough, as my
record of her shows.
What did she think about
when she went? Did she
know people there who
knew her because she had
been there so
often—the weird
intimacy of the jailer
and the jailed? Or even
the jailed and the
jailed? (She encounters
"old friends" when she
arrives who are not
friends but at least
recognizable.) How did
she spend her days? How
was the detox for her
(or were there black
markets in the jail that
gave access to the
needed substances)? Did
she want to leave when
her stint was up? Who
kept track of her days?
Did she have a cell or
was it dormitory style?
Panopticon? How often
did the abuse happen?
Hygiene (showers,
periods, bathrooms)?
So, Ellen, how do you
feel being dragooned
into the service of
historical memory?
What's that, you say?
Let me get writing that
down.
|